It's Not Just a Horse Race...

In the U.S., we are privileged to witness some pretty awesome, intense sporting events.  The Superbowl, October baseball, March Madness, state high school tournaments, just to name a few.  We have all bitten our nails to the nub in the bottom of the ninth, or during the two-minute drill, or in the final 5 seconds before the buzzer, and we have all experienced both the triumph and the heartbreak of that final outcome (or, if you’re from Minnesota, you’ve just experienced the heartbreak).

While I will certainly be the first to defend the United States on taking the cake with many of our properly ‘Murican traditions, I’m afraid I have stumbled upon a sporting event which, frankly, puts the intensity of probably every other sporting event on the planet to shame.  This event is none other than a 700-year old horserace held twice a year in Siena: The Palio.  But, as I have been reminded time and time again by the Sienese locals, “This is not just a horserace.  It’s a battle.”

The Palio dates back to the 1300’s, a time when you might say European popular piety was at a high.  The event has always been, and continues to be, in honor of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and, in fact, the two Palio’s which take place each year occur on or around two important Marian feast days (usually the closest Saturday).  The feasts are Santa Maria in Provenzana (July 2^nd) and the Solemnity of the Assumption (August 15^th).  (So if anyone ever tries to tell you that the Assumption “wasn’t a thing” until 1950, you can kindly direct their attention to this medieval equestrian tradition.)  The race takes place in Siena’s main square, called “La Piazza del Campo.” The horses race on the street surrounding the piazza, running clockwise around the course three times, for a total time of about 90 seconds! 

Important Fact: “The Palio” actually refers to a large cloth banner that is awarded to the winning Contrada.  Every Palio is different, since it is depicted by a new artist every time.  On every Palio, there can be found an image of Our Blessed Mother, as well as small images of the 10 Contradas who are running.  Other than that, everything is up to the creativity of the artist!

A Contrada's "trophy room," housing their prized Palios

However, your next question will logically be: “But why the heck did they start racing horses?” A great question, indeed!  In order to understand the importance of the Palio, one must understand a fundamental aspect of life in Siena: The Contrada.  The medieval town of Siena (the part of the city within the walls) is divided into 17 small neighborhoods, which are called “Contradas.”  Each Contrada, despite being comprised of perhaps only a few city blocks, is, by itself, a fully functional and self-sufficient community, containing its own church, supermarket, community center, etc.  Most of the year, you probably wouldn’t notice much “Contrada pride,” since Siena is usually a pretty normal place.  But once Palio season starts, all bets are off!  Residents begin wearing their Contrada colors and chanting unintelligible Italian songs, while hardcore flagtwirlers and drummers being practicing in the streets.  The reason is simple: when your Contrada wins the Palio, it means you are the best.  And that’s what it’s all about, right?

Important Fact: Not all Contradas run in the Palio.  Since the track isn’t wide enough for 17 horses, only 10 Contradas have a horse in a given race.  The Contradas rotate in such a way that the 7 Contradas who didn’t run in the last Palio automatically run in the next one, along with 3 of the 10 from the last race, who are chosen randomly.  However, this doesn’t stop all 17 Contradas from participating in the Palio festivities!

The flags of the 10 participating Contradas hang above the Piazza.

Below is the list of each Contrada and the number of their horse.

“Palio Week” began on Sunday with the very important unveiling of the Palio, which will eventually be awarded to the winning Contrada.  Until then, it is in the Cathedral of Siena, where the Sienese perform various superstitious rituals in hopes of claiming the trophy on Saturday.  (The most popular ritual is that of throwing your Contrada scarf up at the image of the Blessed Mother, so that she can “bless” your cause.)

On Wednesday, the 10 participating Contradas were randomly assigned their horses, and the past few days have involved a few practice races and a whole lot of chanting in the streets.  Needless to say, it’s been pretty cool to be a part of this epicly ridiculous tradition!  On Friday morning, we seminarians had the opportunity to serve the Mass for the Solemnity of the Assumption at the Cathedral, which is essentially the most important day of the liturgical year for the city of Siena.  It was a beautiful Mass, and certainly a beautiful blessing to be so close to the celebration!

And this isn't even half the craziness!

After the Palio, things will be winding down for us here in Siena.  We will have our final two days of Italian class on Monday and Tuesday, before getting on the bus for Rome on Wednesday!  It really is crazy to think that the month here is over, especially since I can clearly remember getting here and wondering, “How am I going to survive a month of this program?!” But I think that maybe, just maybe, in the midst of all these wonderful saints and beautiful Tuscan towns and 4-course meals and 700-year old horseraces, I’ve actually learned a little Italian!  God is good, folks!

And just so you know that I'm not only watching horses and crazy Italians, here's an image of Our Lord and St. Catherine of Siena from the Basilica of Saint Dominic!